Just picked up these... RCA CWHP-150's



900Mhz, Good Sound, and cheap price...

Nicad's in the headset, recharged by the base unit...

The only downside is if there is no signal to the base unit it goes to sleep till signal returns, and you get static in the headphones.

No problem during games though which is why I wanted them, nice not having a cord to get run over by chair wheels or fetched up on the desk.

The red led's gotta go and the blue ones installed... also gonna look at the circutry of the base to see if the sleep mode can be bypassed...

Sweet, i wanna get the zalman surround sound head phones

anybody make something similar with a high quality Microphone attached? (need it for voice recognition software)

mine are $5 headphones.. the have geat sound and bass

i have some wireless headphones too...one of the best things ive ever bought....next to cordless mouse

my headphones broke... i uh.. steped on them...

looks nice mate... better then my wireless ones... there hard and tight... but they were free...

Troll (or anyone that has these RCA wireless headphones )

Could you look at the wall charger (power supply) and tell me either what the output DC voltage is, or the model number of the wall charger.

I have a set of these and the wall charger has been lost.

Many thanks

Phil

Hey Phil!

It's a:
Thompson PS
PC-1920 DUL
Output DC19V 200mA

Polarity:
Center Conducter is Negative "-"
Outside Barrel is Positive "+"

how do those sound? good quality? good as wired? close even?

i have wanted a pair but am afraid of the quality

Troll,

Thanks a million for the info. Very much appreciated.

I would never have guessed this used a 19V supply. I was trying a universal supply that was switchable up to 12 V and wasn't getting any results. Now I know why.

Thank you again.

Phil

This set is what you want, it is the ONLY one that would even come close to wired headphones...

http://www.amphony.com/products/h2000.htm

All pure digital.. if I had the money these are what I would buy...

thanks dude!

Troll, I've got a question. I just bought a pair of RCA WHP150's. They worked fine in the store, worked fine in my radio, but don't seem to work in my PC (which is why I bought them). I connect the transmitter to the headphone jack on my hard drive, it works for a few seconds, then I lose the signal and the green LED goes off. Is there something that I may be failing to do? Thanks dude!

Hey Guy!

The headphones require ALOT of sound level to stay kicked in... your headphone jack might not put out enough volume... That is the only thing that I dislike about these headphones...

Mine are connected to the headphone jack of my speakers, which is hooked up to line out (Front) (Green) connector on my SBLive! 5.1

I have to have my volume control up 1/2 to 3/4 to keep the headphones engaged.

It takes quite a level to get them to turn on and if that level drops they will run for about 30 seconds then the mute circutry of the transmitter kicks in...

This is what I think your problem is... if sound or music cuts off for more than 30 seconds the transmitter stops till the sound returns.

I've had mine apart and have drawn out the schematic of the circut they use for turning on the transmitter. It's a quad comparator that takes it's input directly from the line in cable... Now all I have to do is play with the resistors to get the switch part lower, so volume does not have to be that high...

There should also be a way to bypass the auto powerdown of the transmitter as well... (switch etc...)

After I stop playing a game I just switch off the headphones cause I know the static is coming in 30 seconds...

Hope this helps...

I've got an older Recoton CLV-A900T wireless system that allows me plug in ANY of my favourite regular headphones.... works great up to about 150 ft. away.

how much they set you back. im tired of mousing over my heaphone cord.

I paid a little more up here in Canada, but here's a few places that sell them.

http://shopping.yahoo.com/p_rca-whp150_hea...ones_1990409565

Thanks Troll! You were right on the money. I actually had the sound down almost all of the way. Thanks again!

i tried wireless headphones, but i wasn;t too satisfied with them

i traded them in for my sennheisers that came with a 3metre cord

I managed to workout a mod for the signal cut-off - more or less increases the sensitivity and lengthens the time before the signal cuts out. If anyone's interested I'll post the details.

yea post them

Yeah I'd like to see the details, I never got around to mod'ing mine... Would be much appreciated to get a working mod.

Hi jswhale:

Please post the method you work around, I am hoping to mod my as well.

Thanks a lot.

I got finally got tired of the mute "feature" of my WHP150 so I took apart the base, probed around and found the responsible circuitry around the LM339 comparator.

Simply clip one leg of R44, a brown green green resistor that is sitting between the fine adjust pot and the two diodes next to the LM339. This will keep C37 from discharging, and concomittally, the comparator from activating the mute feature.

Welcome to 4peeps praealtus!

Thanks for the Sweet info, I'll be checking this out on the weekend... I'll post pics as well...

I figured it had something to do with the comparator... (I hate comparators... it's just I haven't got them fully figured out yet... )

For those of us who don't know, there is a good comparator page found here:
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/Comparators.html

Thanks again!

Well I finally got the headphones adjusted...

I didn't remove the resistor as I did not want the base unit on all the time...
What I did was change the 100uF capacitor to a 330uF one which has added more time till cutoff but not enough for me... need 20 or 30 minutes till cutoff...

I did want to lower the required audio level needed to keep the unit active, some games would cut out in quiet spots. I now only need my output volume a little higher than 1/2 instead of a bit over 3/4 to keep the unit alive and transmitting.

My board with a 330uf in place of the 100uf and 2 100K resistors soldered in series with the 220K's to lower the input reference level:


If you wish to remove a leg off of R44 here is it's location on the Component Side of the board:


What I would do is unsolder one of the legs and pull it out from the board, put a little tape around it so it won't short to a nearby component.
That way you can hook it up again at a later date...

Here are the pads for R44 on the solder side of the board, unsolder either one to lift a leg or both to remove the resistor:


Hope this helps any questions just ask!

Yea, I have a pair of these headphones and here's my problem. I plug them into my PC and have the freq all tuned. They were working fine for a while then they shut off. No green light. No red light. Nothing. I jiggle the DC 19V 200mA transformer and it starts to work for a while. Goes off again. So I kinda get it in the socket so its half in half out and it works for a while, then shuts off. Someone help me.

EDIT: I just plugged them into my stereo and they work fine. I'm gonna try to turn up my volume on my PC and turn the volume down on headphones.

I hope you still have your Recoton and if so do you happen to know the size of the battery pack that fits into the W500 headset ? I had a friend give me his old unit (minus the battery) Appreciate any help, boboz